Plique a jour

[gemserv]

A recent appraisal assignment included a plique a jour pin, unsigned but with a French poincon for 18 karat. Originally a lovely piece, but severely damaged with a broken leaf, major losses tro the enamel and damaged cells. Our "laser" expert says the broken leaf and damaged cells cannot be repaired. But we are faced with the problem of a FMV acceptable to IRS for estate tax. Since it lacks "utility" in its present condition, it has value only to a highly skilled restorer. Any suggestions will be appreciated!

DSC08395 copy.jpg (62.26 KB) Viewed 64 times

Photo grid is 1/10 inch, 2½ mm.

[Suzanne]

Dear Gemserv,

This is a very special piece. The combination of the glass and pearl colors are stunning. It is hard to say without examining your piece whether it is restorable however I would pursue a second opinion. The piece deserves to be intact . Have you shown the pictures to any art nouveau experts? It certainly looks French (and it is marked) and the use of the wasp as subject was used by a few art nouveau jewelers and with the use of enamel and plique ajour. Paul Lienard was one however I looked up a piece he did c1902 and the wasp as different leg shapes and the enamel work on the body is different. You might send the image to Yvonne J. Markowitz , Museum of Fine Arts Boston. She is the curator there and had an exhibit last year of art nouveau jewelry, Imperishable Beauty, at the MFA Boston. She might be able to help you identify the maker. Are you willing to send the brooch for a restoration consultation should I be able to refer you to someone?

Suzanne